In ’13 things we wish we knew before sailing to Indonesia’ we talk about things that can be prepared for, and other things that are just nice to know.
We touch on subjects like navigation, stocking up, safety and communicating in a country where not everyone speaks English.
We have also consulted a few other sailors who are currently Cruising in Indonesia, and many things on the list were repeated.
1# 21st century navigation
I imagine that most people are already familiar with the fantastic new practice of using satellite images to navigate by.
But for those new to it, I want to emphasize the huge advantages it has for navigating in Indonesia. I would go as far as saying, it is the number 1 navigation application you can have.
In some areas the charts are still wildly inaccurate and lack detail, with unmarked reefs and entire islands out of place. Here satellite images with real-time position feature can keep you on track.
This is especially advantageous in reef areas where the crystal clear water makes depth very defined in the images.
Satellite Images are also a great tool to finding new anchorages. It has on multiple occasion made it possible for us to plan routes where very little information has been available.
There are multiple apps which will allow you to download satellite maps.
Most apps offer a free basic version, where you can download images and see your real-time position on them. (Granted that your device has GPS capabilities). You will also be able to save waypoints and adjust visual settings. Upgrading to a paid version will offer many other features.
Offline maps
We use an app called All-In-One Offline Maps free version which we run on a 300AUD android tablet without sim slot but with GPS capabilities. (Unfortunately I do not think this app is available for Apple products.)
AlpineQuest is another app by the same makers.
I would highly recommend this app as it offers both Google and Bing maps, so where there is a cloud in one, there might be clear skies in the other.
In our experience, Bing satellite images are usually much better in Indonesia.
To the right is an example of Bing satellite maps on the Offline maps app, free version.
Catalogging
Satellite image apps are not only good for direct navigation, but is also a great way of cataloging and collecting waypoints from fellow sailors.
When we meet other boats we usually get together to share anchorages, dive sites, hikes, waterfalls and good places to stock up.
Zuluwaterways
For those familiar with Zuluwaterways.com (also offers app version) developed by Nicholas Baillie Jackson (another source you should know) they also offer a free app called Zulu Offshore which will allow you to download satellite images to navigate by.
To the left is a screen shot of an overview of Indonesia on Zuluwaterways.com, showing all anchorages uploaded by Zuluwaterway users.
In addition to guidebooks and Navionics, this is a great way to find information on anchorages.
2# Preparing for deep anchorages
As you probably already know, Indonesian waters are deep and the Island are steep making for some very awkward anchorages.
This is especially true for the Northeastern part of Indonesia, around North Maluku and West Papua (Raja Ampat).
For those with manual windlass’ or no winch at all, this can greatly limit your options for anchorages.
We have a manual windlass and pulling up anything over 30 meters would simply be impossible. We have anchored in 30 meters once and we won’t do it again.
Generally we drop in nothing more than 25 meters. Most of our anchorages having been around the 20 meter mark.
Even with an electric or hydraulic windlass it is a good idea to consider your depths. You will quickly wear out the gears and bearings in your winch when anchoring in excessive depths. This is not at all uncommon among cruisers in Indonesia, and there are instances of boats ending up with no working winch at all.
Anchor rope
One solution for this is to prepare a short length of chain, a length which you will be able to lift by hand, and attach rope to the end of it. This is how most local boats do it, as they generally do not have winches. This might already be necessary for those who do not have enough chain to satisfy their 3/1 scope in excessive depths.
However, if you prefer to keep all chain (we had 60 meters) there are still many options for anchorages in nothing more than 25 meters. For example see our list of anchorages.
In places like Misool, it is also and option to tie up to the rocks or islands around you, avoiding anchoring all together. For this you should keep a few good lengths of rope onboard.
We have 1 length of 100 meters and quite a few extra length of around 50 meters.
Another thing to consider is to add a “retrieving rope” to your anchor, with a buoy on the other end, in case it should get snagged in a depth too deep for you to dive to.
3# Understanding the seasons
Indonesia no doubt has a reputation for having no wind. However, with a little knowledge of the weather patterns and good planning, you can make your chances of a good sail a lot better.
And planning your passages through Indonesia with the seasons in consideration can save you having to sail against strong headwinds and currents.
Indonesia has two seasons, the SE season (April to October), and the NW monsoon season (November-March). With fluky and overall calmer weather in the transitional periods.
There is significant regional variation, with much more consistent weather in the Java and Banda Sea and more variable weather around the northeastern archipelagoes of Maluku and West Papua. I would recommend researching the specific area you intend to sail in.
Erratic weather changes
It is the case for all of Indonesia that the weather can shift from doldrum to fierce squall in a matter of minutes. This will keep you on your toes and make for an active workout on deck, pulling sails up and reefing at every approach of a dark cloud.
In the Northern regions the height of the NW Monsoon, December and January is locally known as the time with strong wind and big waves when most local boats stay in harbor. However, even during this period you will see breaks in the weather when the wind abates, and the seas turn to glass.
There are many places to learn about the weather patterns. For an overview of weather and wind-roses see Global Wind Atlas
Fore weather forecasting we use the free version of Windy, which we find surprisingly accurate. Windy is especially good for checking currents and even tides.
4# Sails and repairs
This is especially relevant for boats on small budgets, but could be useful to know regardless.
If you have old sails in need of repair and wonder if you should chuck them or get them fixed before departing for Indonesia, hold your horses!
There are skilled Seamsters and Seamstresses with durable industrial singer machines everywhere in Indonesia, able to do a fantastic job at an insanely good price. (As long as the job is not highly technical in which case you will need a trained sailmaker)
After all ripping our sails on passages west against the weather, we took our sails to a Seamster in Baubau. (3 boats). He did a very good job at patching our sails for about 80.000 IDR per sail. It was done in a day.
We did provide our own fabric and UV threat as these materials are not available in Indonesia. So I would highly recommend that you bring a small stock of this.
This way you can keep an old sail going for a very long time, which otherwise would not be feasible in places like Australia.
5# Home Brewing to avoid highly taxed Alcohol
I think most sailors like to enjoy a cold beer or a rum here and there. It is good to know that in recent years the Indonesian Government has implemented high taxes on alcohol. This has made alcohol prices in Indonesia comparable to Australian prices, and in the case of beer often more expensive.
You can, however, buy the Indonesian traditional Sopi and Arak; distilled alcohol made from the fruits of the Enau palm. This Alcohol is both very cheap and a social drink which many Indonesians are very proud of. Be sure to ask for Sopi yang enak, which means ‘The good Sopi’, there is a big variation in quality.
For people who are not so keen on this local, unregulated spirit I would highly suggest investing in a home brewing kit for making beer or cider. We know sailors who brew Ginger Beer quite successfully and ginger is readily available at very good prices.
IF YOU ARE A WINE OR CHAMPAIGN DRINKER, fill your bilges wherever you come from. Wine is rarely available and when it is, it will cost you an arm and a leg. This might even be a great currency for trading with other wino-yachties!
6# Avoid the highest agent fees
Through the time of the Covid Pandemic, Indonesian visa rules have been subject to much change and huge increase in Price.
Furthermore, it has become mandatory to use an Indonesian Sponsor to apply for visas.
On the 16th of April 2022, new visas and prices were introduced, see list from the Indonesian Immigration office to the right.
B211a social visa: Grants you 60 days with 2 x 60-day extensions = 6 months)
Alternatively you can now apply for a new visa which grants you 180 days, no extensions. See list to the right.
Currently, the only visa not requiring a sponsor is the VOA (visa on arrival) granting you 30 days extendable once, with a total of 60 days.
The prices shown on the list to the right are the visa tax price and does not include the sponsor’s fee.
There are many sponsors in Indonesia, and their prices can vary greatly.
choosing an Agent
Be aware that there is huge variation in agent/sponsor costs. (with the previous visa, the prices ranged from around 2,000,000 IDR to 4,000,000 IDR per passport for the initial 60 days)
Some agents have been operating for many years and due to experience, reputation and high demand they charge a huge fee for their services.
But there are many good, professional agents who do not have the same exposure, who will do a great job at a much more reasonable price.
We will happily share our experience with our agents, just send us an email on blackduckatsea@gmail.com or send us a message on Facebook on BLACK DUCK AT SEA.
Do your research and talk to sailors who are in Indonesia and have firsthand and RECENT experiences.
There are a few Facebook groups such as Sail SE Asia and Laws and Regulations Indonesia, you can join to follow the changes and ask questions.
If you are leaving specifically from Australia, you can also check out our Group Australia to Indonesia and Beyond 2022. A small group of us started this in 2021 when leaving Australia doing the pandemic.
Relying on Guides and agents
There seems to be a growing tendency to use agents and guides at every destination for everything from Immigration, driving, activities, shopping, refueling, filling water and more.
Some people might prefer to have help and guidance, but if you like being independent and if you sail on a small budget, it might be good to know that this is not at all necessary.
In fact we have only used a guide once. This was on Komodo Island where it was obligatory in order to see the dragons.
See Fuel’n’Water for Black Duck’s methods and experiences with refueling and filling drinking water.
If you make an effort with the language you will make friends everywhere. And like everywhere else in the world, good relations with locals is key to having great shared experiences and the best way to learn about the place you are at.
7# Bringing stuff for trading
Whether intending to trade or gift, it is good to know what items might be valuable in Indonesia.
We have very often been in the situation where a person, family or whole village has been so extremely hospitable and generous that we have felt it an utmost necessity to give something back. (Although most people expect nothing in return for their generosity).
In our experience it is nice to have a variety of stuff so that you have something for both women, men and children.
These are just some of the items we found were greatly appreciated:
- Hook of various sizes, strong fishing line and swivels for the fishermen.
- Ropes for the sailors.
- School books and Rash Guards for the Children (You can go to any Australian secondhand shop and fill bags with old Rash Guards/ Rashies. If you tell them what it is for, you will most likely get a good price)
- T shirts and long pants for the women.
(Everyone loves a cool T-shirt with English writing or a cool logo)
8# food availability
The availability of food varies greatly depending on where you are. But if you prepare to go to the more rural parts of Indonesia, Maluku, Sulawesi and West Papua, it is good to have a loose idea of what is available and what is not.
In most places, apart from very small villages, you will be able to find at least a market.
In the cities the markets have a great variety of products like grains and legumes, spices, fresh vegetables, fruits, and oils.
For non-perishables you can find kiosks in smaller towns and supermarkets in the cities.
In comparison to Australia the supermarkets are quite expensive and consists mostly of highly processed food.
If coming from Australia, I would recommend stocking up on these items before you arrive:
- Preserves (olives, sundried tomatoes, chutneys etc.)
- Cans (a lot of canned food is cheaper in Australia.
- Pasta and noodles (for better quality at comparable prices)
- Niche items such as peanut butter and vegemite (peanut butter is sweetened and has milk powder in it)
- Lentils, cuscus, Quinoa and Chia seeds (can be found, but it is expensive)
- Good flour including dark flours and wholemeals.
Before leaving Australia we had a shipment of bulk organic food sent from Terra Madre. (About 1 year’s worth of grains and legumes). Storing bulk food in jerry cans we avoid generating a lot of plastic.
(As I am vegan and have no clue, I cannot make any recommendations on animal products, but I have heard complaints from fellow sailors about the lack of certain meat and cheese)
!! If you do adopt an Indonesian diet however, there is no need to prepare anything, just turn up and eat extremely well and cheap !!
9# The LPG problem
The Indonesian LPG fitting is different from the Australian and European LPG fitting.
It is illegal to refill gas bottles in Indonesia, and it is very hard to find places that will do it for you, mind you this might be different in more touristy areas and Marinas around Lombok, Bali and Java.
Where refills are not available, you have 2 options. Do it yourself or change to Indonesian Bottles. The latter being the easiest option.
If you have not prepared a hose already, you will need to find the right fittings to fit both your bottle and an Indonesian Bottle.
There are two types of fittings in Indonesia: One which fits the smaller bottles which goes on the top, and one which fit the huge bottles, which happens to be the same as the European/Australian fitting.
The problem is that for refilling you need fittings without regulators, as the regulator will prevent gas from passing in, and these can be a little harder to find.
You can find these fittings in major Cities in Indonesia. I know of Jakarta, Kupang and Sorong or online on Tokopedia, the latter being the cheapest option.
If possible, get an Australian/European fitting without a regulator before you leave.
Gas fittings from Sorong
We ordered this pre assembled hose with both fittings from Pak Victor Saputra in Sorong (He works with Warwick Alliston who runs Helena Marina) at a price of 621,000 IDR including shipping to Ambon. You can contact him on WhatsApp–+628124833831
It does come with a water hose, but I would suggest you change out the hose for a specific gas hose which is readily available and cheap at almost every Hardware store. See picture to the right.
10# fuels and filters
There are three grades of diesel in Indonesia, please see Fuel’n’Water for details.
Due to the multiple times the diesel is decanted in Indonesia as it travels east from Singapore, it can be very dirty. It is therefore a very good idea to use fuel doctor. (Most likely you already use this to help with the bacteria growing due to condensation in your tanks in tropical areas).
You might find fuel doctor in some big cities, but I would highly recommend bringing this from Australia. Make sure that you have enough for long-term cruising and higher than usual diesel consumption. (due to lack of wind)
Although you will be able to order fuel filters in Indonesia, I would suggest bringing a good stock of both fuel and oil filters. You will most likely be changing these more frequently, and might need multiple spares should you be unlucky to come across some extra dirty diesel.
Our fuel tank took a shit
We once found the glass bowl of our primary fuel filter almost entirely full of water. Luckily we have drains at the bottom of our tanks, and when we opened these, it was as if the tanks took a shit. We filled a couple of bottles with water and about a cup full of a brown, sludgy substance.
However, we have not had any real issues, although we sometimes use, Solar, the poorest quality diesel.
We only have 2 filters on our fuel line and do not even polish the diesel, but pour it through a strainer directly into the tank. We do however have a Fordson Major tractor engine from the 1950’s. I would take better care on a sensitive modern engine.
11# Internet availability can save you $$
Only seven years ago I sailed through Indonesia with S.V. Wandoo and the use of satellite phone was absolutely necessary for weather forecasting. But in the recent years Indonesia’s internet availability has improved to the point where you can find internet on pretty much every Island throughout the country.
Apart from possibly saving you a huge bill from satellite phones fees, this is also very handy if you rely on internet for doing online work.
If you come from sailing rural Northern Australia, you are in for a happy surprise.
Internet is also rather cheap, (currently at approximately 100,000 IDR / 10 AUD 25GB).
It topped up using an online app called Telkomsel linked to a money transfer app, such as Ovo.
Be aware that Indonesia requires you to register your phone when you enter the country. This has to be done with customs at arrival. If your phone is worth more than a certain amount you will have to pay import tax.
Personally we decided to buy a cheap phone (at about 600,000 IDR) in Indonesia which we use for hotspotting and WhatsApp.
A wide range of smart phones are available all over Indonesia.
12# Safety (Piracy, thieving and corruption)
In Denmark we have a saying which goes ‘one feather becomes five chickens’. I find this very appropriate for the general portrayal of the safety situation in Indonesia.
Of course I have to be careful disputing that shit can’t happen, cause of course it can. But I think it is extremely important to be accurate rather than dramatic.
Piracy
‘Piracy’ is something which we were warned about multiple times in Australia when planning our trip to Indonesia. Having sailed here before, I knew that this was a greatly exaggerated narrative. And I must say, hearing the same paranoid warning again and again, got frustrating after a while, especially from people who based their advice in hearsay.
Indonesia does have a reputation for piracy, and had a spike in incidents in 2015. Since then, the number of incidents have dropped significantly.
If you do take your time to look into the statistics, you will find that piracy in Indonesia is concentrated around Malacca Strait, mainly targeting Merchant Ships for their resources such as natural gas and petroleum. Attacks on private yachts and crew are actually extremely rare. This is a very important fact.
Unnecessary worry only leads to paranoia and false notions. And suddenly one feather becomes five chicken, feeding the fear which gives Indonesia a bad reputation and sailors a doubt weather they should go at all.
Even sailing in Indonesia we have heard stories of pirate sightings. But many of these stories come from false judgements of curious fishermen or people begging for fuel.
I think it is extremely important to draw a line between uncomfortable encounters with rude or desperate locals and actual pirates.
Thieving
Like most places in the world, thieving does exist. But again I think this narrative is greatly exaggerated in Indonesia. In all our time we have not had a single issue, and we have never worried about leaving our dinghy unattended. We have however heard of other cruisers having stuff stolen from their dinghy or off their decks at night.
For piece of mind in big cities, bring your most valuable items inside and lock up your boat when going ashore.
Theft generally seems to be opportunistic and usually happens in the larger cities. In smaller villages and tight community there seems to be more accountability and a higher pride in welcoming and taking care of visitors.
But no matter where you are, you will often find that people onshore, hanging around the water, will look after your dinghy while you are ashore.
If you are in doubt, ask a local if it is safe to leave your dinghy there, and they will tell you. Safe in Indonesian is ‘aman’. You will often hear locals tell you this before you even ask.
People come up to your yacht all the time, especially in rural areas where visitors are rare. Usually because they want to welcome you or because they are curious to have a look at your amazing sailing vessel. You should strive to meet these people with equal hospitality, not suspicion and rejection, because you are fearful.
On Navionics, we have noticed many comments on anchorages stating that there are thieves ashore, I would disregard this information and make your own judgements.
We live by the idea, ‘be a good guest and your host will look out for you’.
Corruption
Another thing Indonesia is infamous for is corruption, and I HAVE had first hand experience with corruption in 2015. But a lot has changed in the last seven years, and a big effort to stop corruption among customs and immigration has been very successful.
Cash is not even being handled at the offices anymore as a set fee is transferred using the bank.
We have not had a single issue with officials, but have generically found them helpful and professional.
However, due to the changes in procedures during the pandemic, many agents/sponsors saw an opportunity to charge outrageous fees. I would recommend that if you use an agent, only chose one on recommendation, and even then, take your time to compare fees with other agents.
13# Learning the Language!
I know that many people come to Indonesia for the reefs and the beaches, but to neglect exploring the amazing culture would be a great mistake.
In tourist areas many people speak English, but should you choose to venture to more rural areas, expect to find yourself in villages where no one speaks English.
No matter what country you go to it is good custom to practice the language, but in Indonesia especially it will change your entire experience completely. You will find yourself in places which cannot be researched on google and if you can make conversation and ask questions the things you will learn about the history and current life will blow your mind.
People in Indonesia are generally extremely hospitable and sociable, and with some language you will make friends everywhere you go. For me it has been the time spent with people, learning the language, learning the history, the cooking and the making of so many great crafts that has made Indonesia one of my favorite places to travel in the world. We are both overwhelmed by the good treatment we have had everywhere we go, I cannot even justify it with my words.
You have to be able to communicate
Remember too that Indonesia is a nation of sailors, and if you know your boat, ocean, and weather terms in Bahasa Indonesia, you will be able to get very valuable local knowledge about currents anchorages and more. And you will find that locals will often greet you to give you a tip.
Furthermore, bargaining is a normal custom anywhere in Indonesia, also for the locals, but do not expect to be taken seriously if you cannot at least count.
Lastly, Indonesians are very polite and a lot of that comes through in the language. Learning how to address your elders, how to greet and how to show appreciation should be the minimum.
Bahasa Indonesia (Indonesian) is a very easy language to learn, there really is no excuse!
On both my visits to Indonesia, I made a pocket dictionary while learning the basics. Below is a PDF of the dictionary I made. It can be printed, folded and kept in your pocket. It is very basic, but might help you out as you begin your learning. Larger Dictionaries are available at most supermarkets. They are called ‘kamus’.
click through the pages in the bottom left corner.
Last but not least, Enjoy!
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I would like to download a copy of your Indo language simple guide. Is there a link for it please? Its great thankyou. Thanks for all the helpful info…see you on the water.
Hi Davidson Joy. I just saw that there was no downloading option. I have fixed that, so that you should be able to take it straight from the post now. Enjoy, it is a great language!
thank you very much for these numerous tips !
hope to see you on the next mooring 😉
G’day Riley and Klara
After spending a number of years sailing in Indonesia, l have to totally agree with your points listed here. The Indonesians are beautiful people although the Country is not without its challenges … which l guess makes it special. A very well written and informative guide. Keep up the great work.
Looking forward to sailing back into Asia.
Fair winds
Rob
SY North Star
Darwin
Hi Rob
Thank you for your kind comment!
We will be in Lombok for a while, getting the boat ready for the next big trip.
Let us know if you come this way!
Fair winds
Klara