MALAYSIA
The following information was documented during our voyage Northbound Sailing through Malacca Strait during the SW Monsoon in September 2022.
This is not necessarily the recommended time of year to transit Malacca Strait, as frequent westerly squalls (Sumatras) puts you on a lee shore and make many anchorages unattainable.
Our collection of anchorages, found below, therefore includes only those which gave adequate to good protection against the SW Monsoons westerly weather.
For other anchorages suitable during the NE Monsoon and information about the many Marinas along the Malaysian coast you can refer to one of the links listed below.
Moonsoons and Weather Forecasting
MONSOONS
The NE Monsoon prevails from about November to April, and the SW Monsoon, from April to November. The wettest months are October, November and December.
During the NE Monsoon a NE-E breeze generally blows during the day, getting stronger in the afternoon, and dies down before sunset. A landbreeze is common at night.
This makes for possible anchorages pretty much anywhere along the coast of Malaysia.
During the SW Monsoon winds are more consistent and squalls from the west are more frequent, which puts you on a lee shore against Malaysia, and greatly limits the options for anchoring.
Squalls (Sumatras) can form at any time of year, but are more frequent during the SW Monsoon. They generally follow a pattern where they build over Sumatra during the day when the land heats up, and draws over the Strait in the night when the land cools. The majority of Sumatras hit the Strait in the early morning hours between 2am and 5am.
FORECASTING WIND AND SQUALLS
Our main sources for Weather Forecasting is Windy.com or Predict Wind, and we generally find that the ECMWF model is most accurate.
Before planning a passage we make sure to check not only the wind forecast but also ‘Thunderstorms’, which is a layer that can be selected on Windy.com. Although it is incredible, these predictions have been surprisingly accurate and saved us many unpleasant nights sailing through storms.
TIDES AND CURRENTS
Understanding the currents in Malacca strait is not entirely straight forward and their force and direction to the flood and ebb changes drastically depending on area and time of moon phase. However, the ‘CURRENT’ layer on Windy.com has proven to be very accurate and is a good base for planning your voyages. Another great source for getting a better understanding of the patterns is the SEA-SEEK’s Guide to Malacca Strait
OTHER SOURCES
Another helpful source for forecasting is the Malaysian Meteorological Department’s Facebook Group. They send out weather warnings almost consistently every hour for states forecasted to get heavy rains and floods. The forecasts last for up to 6 hours. This might help you confirm the approach of squally weather, though it should be noted that Malaysia mainland do see heavy rains most days this time of year, and a weather alert on land does not necessarily mean it will effect the Strait.
Port Clearances
There is no way around it: Port Clearance needs to be obtained, on both arrival and departure, at every Port you visit in Malaysia.
Clearing into Malaysia from another country can be done at most ports (see Noonsite for complete list of Ports) fast and free without the use of an agent. The procedure is straight forward, and you will quickly get good at it, as you will have to repeat it many times as you move through the country.
Port Clearance is made at following offices in the order as listed below, within 24 hours of arrival and 48 hours of departure.
- Jabatan Laut (Habour Master)
- Jabatan Kastam (Custom)
- Jabatan Imigresen (Immigration)
At each office you get a document which you are to bring to the next office.
Documents to bring to offices are (based on our case)
- Passports
- Vessel Registration
- Port Clearance from last Port
- Letter for Immigration from last Port
- Insurance (meeting the 5 points of Malaysian minimum requirement)
- Crew list (in some cases)
VISA
Most Nationalities will get a stamp in their Passport on arrival granting a total of 90 days in Malaysia for no fee.
Other Great Sources
BLACK DUCK NORTHBOUND 2022
We crossed Singapore Strait from the top of Bintan Island in Indonesia to Tanjung Pangelih in Malaysa (to the east of Singapore) The full with of the Strait here is 9nm, whereof about 3nm is shipping channel.
The advantage of crossing here is that the southern lane in the Shipping Channel sees very little eastward traffic, as most Ships have already left the Strait to stop in either Singapore or Batam, Indonesia.
The disadvantage to crossing this far east, is that you later, if heading to Malacca Strait, have to travel the whole length of the Singapore Strait following the busy shipping Channel on the Singaporean side.
The tide in Singapore Strait floods west and ebbs east, the speed exaggerated around spring tides. It is well worth timing your transit of the Strait with the current, to help you pass the busy ports, where the west/east traffic order is broken, faster.
You should keep a close eye on your AIS at all times, Ships can suddenly turn or change speeds, and keep a listening watch on Channel 16.
Make sure to stay clear of the Singaporean Border, it is heavily patrolled, and they do not like you crossing it.
Tanjung Pengelih
Tanjung Pengelih on the southeast tip of Malaysia to the east of Singapore and share the Johor Strait with Singapore. Tanjung Pengelih is an official Port where clearance in and out of Malaysia can be obtained.
01°23.028’N 104°05.651’E
6m mud – Good Holding
This anchorage lies to the north of the Navy Base. Although it is a little far from the Ferry Terminal it is the safest anchorage as it is well protected from weather from any direction.
(Anchoring too close to the Navy’s jetty, might cause them to come out and ask you to move)
Alternatively anchorage can be taken just south of the Ferry Terminal, but as we saw a lot of squalls come from the south sending a swell through this anchorage, we did not dare to leave our boat unattended and chose the northern anchorage, despite the 1 mile dinghy trip.
Dinghy landing can be taken in at the ferry terminal as shown in the picture above.
All offices which needs to be visited upon arrival (Harbour Master, Customs and Immigration) are located at the ferry terminal south of the Navy Base. They are open every day of the week apart from public holidays.
An Agent is not required for clearing in at this Port, and there are no fees for clearing in. The process takes about 2 hours if paperwork is in order.
Start from the top floor and work your way down in the order of Harbor Master, Custom to Immigration.
There are taxies from the Ferry Terminal to the small town Sungai Ringet. (Ask security or at the Kiosk at the terminal) The drive takes about 20 minutes and costs about RM40.
There are several Groceries and restaurants in Sungai Ringet, as well as a couple of Petrol Stations.
The cheapest diesel is subsidized diesel for RM 2.15/L (as of Sep 2022) and according to Government regulations foreigners are only allowed 20L per person per day. This can be obtained at the petrol station in Sungai Ringet. (On one occasion we were allowed extra)
Alternatively there is a fuel barge further up river, but here the price is higher.
I have also heard from a fellow cruiser that Industrial diesel can be bought at the ferry terminal.
Unfiltered tap water is available at the south end of the marina in the parking lot. This smelled a little musky and is most likely not good for drinking.
From Tanjung Pengelih to Johor Bahru
The passage from Tanjung Pengelih to the ‘Second Link Bridge’ at the western entrance of Johor Strait is 50nm long.. And it is another 10nm from the bridge up the strait to Country Gardens Marina in Denga Bay.
In the Singapore Strait the tide floods to the west and ebbs to the east. In this end of Malacca Strait, it floods to the North and ebbs to the South.
The strongest current we encountered in the Strait was around 2 knots. Timing your passage with the flow of the tide is preferable.
Ships are anchored along the entire coast of Singapore. When going along the channel, it is best to stay on the edge of the shipping lane, where the directions of the traffic is a little more predictable.
Make sure to stay clear of the Singaporean Border, it is heavily patrolled, and they do not like you crossing
Johor Bahru
There are currently 3 operational Marinas in Singapore Strait, whereof two lie on the east side of the causeway which connects Johor Bahru to Singapore, and one lies to the west.
Puteri Harbor on the west side seems to be the most popular stop, as it is a convenient place to stop on the way up Malacca Strait and also acts as a Clearance Port.
But for those who have already cleared in wanting to avoid Marina fees anchorage can also be taken almost anywhere in the Johor Strait.
Make sure to stay well clear of the Singaporean border, which runs more or less through the middle of the Strait. It is marked well with yellow channel markers and heavily petrolled by boats, which will no doubt keep an eye on you.
01°22.961’N 103°38.750’E 8-10m mud – Excellent Holding
This is a convenient stop if you just wanna stop for the night before heading up Malacca Strait or if needing to wait for the changing tide when coming in or out of Johor Strait.
…This is not an official marina, and mooring here should only be done at your own discretion…
01°27.847’N 103°43.470’E
1.5 – 2m at LW
The small Marina at Country Gardens in Denga Bay, is “managed” by the same guy who runs the Beach Bar right ashore from it.
At time of writing the Marina is very run down and showing many signs of neglect. A handful of boats, also looking abandoned, are berthed here.
However, we did take a berth here on the very end, and stayed here for 3 nights free of charge. (We talked to the Manager) We left it unattended for 2 days as we made a trip to Singapore.
Tap water is available on the jetty, and smelled alright.
The depths at the Marina are very shallow, and at the outer most berth would have been reading only about 1.5 meters at the lowest tide.
The depths are the same extending far out into the bay, and we only moved at close to high water.
From Johor Bahru to Pulau Besar
The passage from the ‘Second Link Bridge’ at Johor to Pulau Besar (Big Island) is 100nm and for most vessels would require doing an overnighter.
Alternatively anchorage can be taken at Pulau Pisang, 35nm from Johor, breaking the sail into two days of day sailing.
However, during the SE Monsoon Season, anchorage at Pulau Pisang can be exposed to frequent strong westerly weather.
If choosing to sail through the night, stay on the edge of the shipping channel to avoid the worst of the fishing fleet and their many nets.
Pulau Besar
NORTHSIDE:
02°07.151’N 102°19.987’E in 9m sand Excellent Holding
SOUTHSIDE:
02°06.524’N 102°20.499’E in 3m sand Excellent Holding
or
02°06.374’N 102°20.630’E in 5m sand Excellent Holding
Located about 6nm SE off the City of Malacca, Pulau Besar offers a good stop for boats not feeling up for the more exposed anchorage at Malacca.
Anchorage can be found on either the northside or the eastside depending on the direction of the weather.
Either option is good if the weather keeps its direction, however neither will work in both southerly and westerly squalls.
Due to a changing forecast we had to move during a squall in the middle of the night.
NOTE: There still seems to be no information about the height of the powerlines which run across the water from Mainland to Pulau Besar, and though they looked plenty high, we still took the long route around.
Maybe some day someone will take the time to measure the height with their sextant.
From Pulau Besar to Port Dickson
The passage from Pulau Besar to Port Dickson is 42nm.
For much of the way it passes several big ship anchorages, which we chose to pass on the outside. Friends who past through reported having to dodge several fishing nets lied out among the anchored ships.
Port Dickson Basin
SQUARE BASIN:
02°28.348’N 101°51.014’E in 3m mud LW, Good Holding
ROUND BASIN:
02°28.380’N 101°51.263’E in 3m mud LW, Good Holding
There are several options in Port Dickson, one of which is this super protected basin, just south of the Admiral Marina.
A new Marina is currently being built in the south end of the round basin with plans of also putting in moorings.
At the time of writing (OCT 2022) only a few berths are available, but anchorage is allowed in either one of the basins, as long as leaving room for the Port Dickson Dragon Cruise, to move in and out of the Marina.
The Marina (and the whole basin) is Managed by Clifton, and fees are charged even for anchoring.
Contact Clifton in advance and try to negotiate a fair price, or expect to pay fees almost equivalent to that of taking a berth.
Clifton’s WhatsApp: +60 194 149 149
Fees for a berth is currently set at RM 1.5 per foot with discounts offered for longer stays.
The whole basin reads a consistent depth of about 3m at LW. Deeper drafted boats should enter during higher tides.
The only free anchorages in Port Dickson is outside, exposed to westerly weather, which might be a problem during the SE Monsoon.
The Passage from Port Dickson to Port Klang is 59nm. If this distance cannot be made, there are options for anchoring in the south end of Port Klang.
As this is the narrowest part of the Malacca Strait, the current runs extra strong. When pushing the current, stay closer to shore where it runs a little less.
The current exhilarates through Port Klang, and approach should preferably be timed running with the current. See more details below.
Port Klang (North Port)
03°02.834’N 101°20.427’E in 8m mud LW – Excellent Holding
This anchorage is located in a spacious area (depths between 8-12m) of the main channel at Port Klang away from all the big ships and traffic.
Passage through Channel
The channel is dredged to a minimum of 15 meters, but is in most places much deeper.
Coming up through the channel from the south, we stayed right on the edge of the Portside of the Channel, to avoid the many docks and its heavy traffic on the other side. This seemed to be a good strategy, though keep a sharp lookout for ships coming the other way at all times.
There might also be a few drift nets to avoid, as the fishermen do not seem to worry about setting up even within the channel.
Listening watch on VHF Port channel 12 is recommended.
Tide and current at Port Klang (readings from North Port)
Passing through the channel is preferable going with the tide, as the current runs strong here, at up to 3kts during spring tides.
The tide and current is quite confusing to understand in this area, and do not change at the same time.
According to our readings the current started running North at about 2 hours after HW at North Port.
The current started running South about 5 hours before high water at North Port.
Keep an eye on the water as big patches of floating rubbish form along tidelines.
NOTE:
If wanting to avoid the main channel, passage can also be taken through the channel to the west. However, this is reputed to have a lot of nets.
Although I know people who have taken this route, I do not know the depths and particulars.
The Main Channel is in itself an experience. It is busy, but nothing you have not already seen in the Strait.
MARINAS
If wanting to stop for a longer period and explore Kuala Lumpur, there are two Marinas in Port Klang.
Royal Selangor Yacht Club and Pulau Indah Marina, run by the Peninsular Sailing Club.
The Passage from Port Klang to Kuala Selangor is 25nm.
If tides and boat draft allows, a stop at Kuala Selangor is a good way to shorten the otherwise 65nm run to Sunai Bernam.
We left 4 hours after HW at Port Klang, 2 hours after the current had started running North, and arrived less than than 3 hours after at the entrance to the river at Kuala Selangor.
Here we had to wait for another 3 hours for the tide to come up high enough that we could safely enter the very shallow river. See more details below.
Kuala Selangor
03°21.424’N 101°14.423’E in 3m mud LW – Excellent Holding
We would never have attempted entering this VERY SHALOW river had it not been for the “testing” of it, by friends entering a few days prior in their Catamaran which draws a mere 50cm.
This anchorage is located just downriver from a great little tourist town in what seemed to be the deepest spot.
The depths in the river leading up to the anchorage and the depths of the entire approach from entry, seemed to be quite consistent and much of it would almost or entirely dry out during neap low tides.
Currents run very strong, especially at outgoing tides, but holding is good.
TIDES AND DEPTHS AT THE RIVER ENTRANCE
At LW the entrance to the river is less than 0.5m to 0m and entry should only be attempted during higher tides and in calm seas.
For predicting the tides, we compared the charts on Navionics and Tidecharts.com which showed out to be significantly different, with Navionics showing more than 1 meter extra tide, and earlier high tide upon entry, and Tidecharts, showing 1 meter higher tide upon exit. But upon exit it was confirmed that Navionics was more accurate, and would have run aground had we purely gone by the predictions of the other.
Black Duck draws 1.5m and we commenced our entry at a 3.6m tide (according to Navionics) The lowest reading we saw (measured from water surface) was 2.8m.
The next day we exited at a lower tide (due to neap tides) and saw less than 0.5m under the keel for quite some time. It was a horrible feeling, and if I was to do it again, I would make sure we had bigger tides.
- 03°17.888’N 101°12.342’E
- 03°18.028’N 101°12.435’E
- 03°18.478’N 101°12.741’E
- 03°19.975’N 101°13.662’E
- 03°20.392’N 101°14.028’E
IMPORTANT! The depths as marked on the satellite image above are our sonar readings (from water surface) calculated at LW according to Navionics tide charts. Allow for slight inaccuracy, and be sure to enter on sufficient tide.
There is a lot of fishing traffic coming out of all rivers along this stretch. Many are trawling but nets are also put out, marked by small flags and buoys, sometimes right at the entrance to the rivers.
Some of the bigger fishing boats have AIS.
A big fleet operates out of Sungai Bernam and will often be seen entering and exiting in a long parade around sunset and sunrise so make sure to wave. There is plenty of room in the river entrance to pass all these boats safely, but be aware that normal maritime rules are not always followed, and many seemed to prefer passing stb to stb.
I would not sail this part close to the coast at night without a spotlight off the bow. Instead I would go out to the edge of the shipping channel.
Sungai Bernam
03°50.786’N 100°50.049’E 2.4m mud LW Excellent Holding
This anchorage about 200m from the southern shore, tucked in behind the point to the west, looks to be well protected.
Fish farms and stakes along the shoreline prevented us from tucking in further.
I have read several comments that boat have been ‘struck’ by fishing vessels in this river, however I find it hard to believe that you should have any trouble here, as you are far from the channel where the fishing boats transit in and out.
To be safe, keep your boat well lit at night.
- 03°48.206’N 100°45.874’E
- 03°48.969’N 100°46.840’E
- 03°50.290’N 100°48.164’E
- 03°50.901’N 100°48.721’E
- 03°50.965’N 100°49.181’E
IMPORTANT! The depths as marked on the satellite image above are our sonar readings (from water surface) calculated at LW according to Navionics tide charts. Allow for slight inaccuracy, and be sure to enter on sufficient tide.
According to our recent sonar readings and Navionics tide charts, there is a minimum of 1.7m depth on at the river entrance at the lowest spring tide.
We entered (with 1.6m draft) at a 1.57m tide and had no issues.
I have marked our sonar readings on Navionics as we went in, they are calculated at lowest water, so remember to add your tide on top.
There are also older sonar readings added by other Navionics Users on the chart, but these are not accurate anymore, or was not calculated at low water and therefore show excessive depths. So make sure to check the date of when the sonar readings were added. (Ours are from 4 Oct 2022).
The Passage from Sungai Bernam to Lumut is 43nm and staying east of Pulau Payong and its surrounding reefs is free of Dangers.
The fishing fleet is dense here, so keep an eye out for trawlers and nets.
Lumut River (at Pangkor)
By far the majority of all vessels who pass by here, stop at the well reputed Pangkor Marina. And for good reasons too, for the manager James Khoo has a fantastic reputation for offering great services from Marina Berth to Haul out.
But if you like us are only passing by and want to save your dollars, anchorage in the river is a great alternative, and located right in front of Lumut, gives you much better access to the local restaurants and shops, with a bus service (not to frequent) or cheaper Grab fees to Manjung for doing Port Clearance.
04°14.316’N 100°38.438’E 5m mud, Excellent Holding
This anchorage is located just north of the abandoned International Yacht Club Marina. (Apparently they will be building a new Marina)
It is well protected from all weather and conveniently close to Lumut’s restaurants and shops.
Dinghy can be left at the old Yacht Club Marina, though be aware that it is presently in terrible condition.
Alternatively there is a floating pontoon a bit further west.
If you ask the park maintenance guy, at the park just ashore from the Marina, he can show you the very inconspicuous tap wherefrom you can get drinking water.
In our opinion this was an awesome free and convenient alternative to the Pangkor Marina, which is quite isolated.
Inconveniently the Jabatan Laut and the Immigration offices are located in one area, in Seri Manjung, but the custom, whom you have to visit second, is quite a ways away in Sitiawan. So either you need a car or multiple Grabs.
Buses also leave from Lumut a few times a day.
(4 x Grabs came to about RM 38)
Below is a list of addresses to the offices in the order they should be visited.
- Pejabat Laut Lumut – Jabatan Laut Malaysia (Harbour Master)
Tingkat 3, Bangunan Persekutuan, Jalan Kayu Manis, 32040 Seri Manjung, Perak, Malaysia - Jabatan Kastem Diraja Malaysia Lumut (Custom)
Jalan Haji Mohammed Ali, 32000 Sitiawan, Perak, Malaysia - Pejebat Imigresen Lumut (Immigration)
Jalan Kampong Dato’ Sri Kamaruddin, 32200 Seri Manjung, Perak, Malaysia
It is only a very short run of 18nm (less if you shortcut it over the sandbanks), but it is a great head-start for the next day’s 65nm long passage.
Not wanting to worry about depths going on a dropping tide and having lots of time, we took the longer route out of the NW exit north of Pulau Pangkor and ran along the edge of the sandbank that extends far off Pulau Pangkor, until we saw at least 4 meters on the chart and turned towards Pulau Talang. We found the depths pretty accurate in this area, with plenty of depths around Pulau Talang.
Approaching Pulay Talang we had to zigzag through a minefield of small flags with nets or lines, however nothing appeared to be on the surface and we could easily go between them.
At night, MOST of these flags were lit with flashing lights of different colors.
The next morning we left before sunrise and navigated back out through the many flags with a spotlight off the bow.
Pulau Talang
04°25.241’N 100°34.676’E 6m mud – Good Holding
As described in the passage account above, be aware of potential fishing ‘flags’ upon approach.
This anchorage seems to offer decent protection during the SW Monsoon.
In the course of the one night we spent there, we saw wind blow from the SW, SE and NE.
Anticipating wind from squalls formed over the land, anchor at a sufficient distance from Talang Island to allow for swing room. (We were a little close for my liking, with about 50 meters to the rocks, nevertheless we were fine.)
If you have a slower boat like us, you might wanna leave very early for this 65nm passage (longer if you intend to arrive at the North of Penang). However, arrival at night in Penang is also an option.
It is also well worth to time this with some northern going current, Windy.com shows rather accurate forecasting for the change of current. However we did find the south current running a little stronger, than predicted.
Inside Penang Island the current is much stronger and traveling with the right tide is a big advantage.
As always, keep an eye out for fishing flags, some with buoys floating nets and some with lines along the seabed.
Passing under both Penang’s Bridges is straight forward. Both bridges must be cleared through the Center Channel, with a 25m clearance under the southern bridge and 30m clearance under the northern bridge. (I have not personally measured this)
Penang
Penang is one of my personal favourite destinations in Malaysia. It is where I started my sailing life in 2015 and a place I ever since intended to return to with my own boat and boyfriend.
The main reason for this is the fantastic atmosphere of the city it’s stunning surroundings, its many cultures and its AMAZING food.
If you are sailing to Penang, you should have a look at our ‘A Sailor’s Practical Guide to Penang on a Budget‘
There are various anchorage options in Penang, though not all provide good protection in all wind.
We only anchored in two locations, and both were good. See below.
However, anchorages can also be found north of Pulau Rimau in the very south, in front of the Clan Jetties (Junk Anchorage) at George Town and outside Straits Quay Marina in the very North.
Details on passing under bridges are described in the passage account above.
05°19.065’N 100°18.487’E 6m mud LW – Good Holding
It seems that anchorage can be found pretty much anywhere along the west side of Jerejak Island or even along the Pinang side of the channel.
It was a little shallow rounding the south end of Jerejak, but following the depths showing on Navionics (seemed to be accurate), the shallowest we registered was about 3m.
Make sure to anchor relatively close to shore as fishermen with drift nets might come buy here. One certainly did just as we had anchored and we had about 5 minutes to get the anchor back up and move further in before the net was upon us. We ended up at the anchorage provided above, approved by the friendly and apologetic fisherman.
I have read many accounts of people being told by the Marine Department that anchoring here is not allowed. However, we were left undisturbed for a good nights sleep.
05°23.703’N 100°19.781’E 4m mud LW – Good Holding
Despite the fact that this anchorage is located right north of the City Dump this is an excellent anchorage.
It offers both great protection and “easy” access to shore, in walking distance to food courts and shops and is only a short bus ride from George Town.
Be aware of the great sand bank (marked on Navionics) which runs parallel to shore from the top of Jerejak Island to a channel marker (pass north of) west off the Clan Jetties in George Town. We saw one sailboat get stuck on this bar near high tide and dry out completely before they could get off on the following high tide at 3am. (We picked up most of the crew with a fishing boat and took them to shore while the captain and a crew stayed onboard waiting for 12 hours).
Fisherman’s Wharf
The most convenient place to land the dinghy is on the fisherman’s wharf, which has floating pontoons though in a very poor state.
The only issue with this landing is that the gate gets locked at night (sometimes as early as 17.00 though there might be fishermen around to let you trough.)
If no one is around you can go and ask security at the Fisherman’s plot (marked on the map below) nicely, if he can come down and open the gate for you. (Remember, this is a private fishing jetty, so it is a good idea to ask permission to use it first)
Sungai Pinang
Alternatively you can take the dinghy up Sungai Pinang. There are a few places the dinghy can be left, the best we found to be, as marked on the satellite image, at a small fishing boat dock next to a house on stilts. The house belongs to Cat who is very friendly, and if not her, someone is usually around to approve of your parking and probably offer you a shower.
From here it is only a 15-20 minute walk to George Town, or 10 minutes to the Chinese market and the bus.
For more information about Penang including Port Clearance Procedures and recommendations for provisioning, refueling and activities click on the post Below.
A Sailor’s Practical Guide to Penang on a Budget
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Brilliant! Thank you.
Looking to bring a boat from North Queensland, Australia to Phuket next April-May and, while a lot of this doesn’t mean much ow, I’m sure it will be handy enroute.
Happy this is helpful!
All the best on your trip up and might see you in Phuket!