13 Things we wish we knew before sailing to Indonesia

In ‘13 Things We Wish We Knew Before Sailing to Indonesia‘, we talk about things that can be prepared for and other things that are just nice to know.

We touch on subjects like navigation, stocking up, safety, and communicating in a country where not everyone speaks English.

We have also consulted a few other sailors who are currently Cruising in Indonesia, and many things on the list were repeated.

1# 21st Century Navigation

I imagine that most people are already familiar with the fantastic new practice of using satellite images to navigate by. But for those new to it, I want to emphasize the huge advantages it has for navigating in Indonesia. I would go as far as saying it is the number 1 navigation application you can have.

In some areas, the charts are still wildly inaccurate and lack detail, with unmarked reefs and entire islands out of place. Here, satellite images with real-time position features can keep you on track.
This is especially advantageous in reef areas where the crystal clear water makes depth very defined in the images.

Satellite Images are also a great tool for finding new anchorages. It has, on multiple occasions, made it possible for us to plan routes where very little information has been available.

There are multiple apps that will allow you to download satellite maps.
Most apps offer a free basic version, where you can download images and see your real-time position on them. (Granted that your device has GPS capabilities). You will also be able to save waypoints and adjust visual settings. Upgrading to a paid version will offer many other features.

Offline maps

We use an app called All-In-One Offline Maps free version which we run on a 300AUD android tablet without sim slot but with GPS capabilities. (Unfortunately I do not think this app is available for Apple products.)
AlpineQuest is another app by the same makers.

I would highly recommend this app as it offers both Google and Bing maps, so where there is a cloud in one, there might be clear skies in the other.
In our experience, Bing satellite images are usually much better in Indonesia.

Below is an example of Bing satellite maps on the Offline Maps app free version.

Catalogging

Satellite image apps are not only good for direct navigation but are also a great way of cataloging and collecting waypoints from fellow sailors.

When we meet other boats, we usually get together to share anchorages, dive sites, hikes, waterfalls, and good places to stock up.

Zuluwaterways

For those familiar with Zuluwaterways.com (which also offers an app version), developed by Nicholas Baillie Jackson (another source you should know). They also offer a free app called Zulu Offshore, allowing you to download satellite images to navigate by.

Below is a screenshot of an overview of Indonesia on Zuluwaterways.com, showing all anchorages uploaded by Zuluwaterway users. In addition to guidebooks and Navionics, this is a great way to find information on anchorages.

2# Preparing for Deep Anchorages

As you probably already know, Indonesian waters are deep, and the Island is steep, making for some very awkward anchorages.
This is especially true for the Northeastern part of Indonesia, around North Maluku and West Papua (Raja Ampat).
For those with manual windlass’ or no winch at all, this can greatly limit your options for anchorages.

We have a manual windlass and pulling up anything over 30 meters would simply be impossible. We have anchored in 30 meters once, and we won’t do it again.
Generally, we drop in nothing more than 25 meters. Most of our anchorages have been around the 20-meter mark.

Even with an electric or hydraulic windlass, it is a good idea to consider your depths. You will quickly wear out the gears and bearings in your winch when anchoring in excessive depths. This is not at all uncommon among cruisers in Indonesia, and there are instances of boats ending up with no working winch at all.

Anchor rope

One solution for this is to prepare a short length of chain, a length which you will be able to lift by hand and attach a rope to the end of it. This is how most local boats do it, as they generally do not have winches. This might already be necessary for those who do not have enough chain to satisfy their 3/1 scope in excessive depths.

However, if you prefer to keep all chain (we had 60 meters), there are still many options for anchorages in nothing more than 25 meters. For example, see our list of anchorages.

In places like Misool, it is also an option to tie up to the rocks or islands around you, avoiding anchoring all together. For this you should keep a few good lengths of rope onboard.
We have 1 length of 100 meters and quite a few extra length of around 50 meters.

Another thing to consider is to add a “retrieving rope” to your anchor, with a buoy on the other end, in case it should get snagged in a depth too deep for you to dive to.

3# Understanding the Seasons

Indonesia no doubt has a reputation for having no wind. However, with a little knowledge of the weather patterns and good planning, you can make your chances of a good sail a lot better. And planning your passages through Indonesia with the seasons in consideration can save you having to sail against strong headwinds and currents.

Indonesia has two seasons: the SE season (April to October) and the NW monsoon season (November to March). With fluky and overall calmer weather in the transitional periods.

There is significant regional variation, with much more consistent weather in the Java and Banda Sea and more variable weather around the northeastern archipelagoes of Maluku and West Papua. I would recommend researching the specific area you intend to sail in.

Erratic weather changes

It is the case for all of Indonesia that the weather can shift from doldrum to fierce squall in a matter of minutes. This will keep you on your toes and make for an active workout on deck, pulling sails up and reefing at every approach of a dark cloud.

In the Northern regions, the height of the NW Monsoon, December and January, is locally known as the time with strong winds and big waves when most local boats stay in the harbor. However, even during this period, you will see breaks in the weather when the wind abates and the seas turn to glass.

There are many places to learn about the weather patterns. For an overview of weather and wind roses, see Global Wind Atlas     

For weather forecasting, we use the free version of Windy, which we find surprisingly accurate. Windy is especially good for checking currents and even tides.

4# Sails and Repairs

This is especially relevant for boats on small budgets, but could be useful to know regardless.
If you have old sails in need of repair and wonder if you should chuck them or get them fixed before departing for Indonesia, hold your horses!

There are skilled Seamsters and Seamstresses with durable industrial singer machines everywhere in Indonesia, able to do a fantastic job at an insanely good price. (As long as the job is not highly technical, in which case you will need a trained sailmaker).

After all ripping our sails on passages west against the weather, we took our sails to a Seamster in Baubau. (3 boats). He did a very good job at patching our sails for about 80.000 IDR per sail. It was done in a day.
We did provide our own fabric and UV threat as these materials are not available in Indonesia. So I would highly recommend that you bring a small stock of this.

This way you can keep an old sail going for a very long time, which otherwise would not be feasible in places like Australia.

5# Home Brewing to Avoid Highly Taxed Alcohol

I think most sailors like to enjoy a cold beer or a rum here and there. It is good to know that in recent years the Indonesian Government has implemented high taxes on alcohol. This has made alcohol prices in Indonesia comparable to Australian prices and, in the case of beer, often more expensive.

You can, however, buy the Indonesian traditional Sopi and Arak; distilled alcohol made from the fruits of the Enau palm. This Alcohol is both very cheap and a social drink which many Indonesians are very proud of. Be sure to ask for ‘Sopi yang enak’, which means ‘The good Sopi’, there is a big variation in quality.

For people who are not so keen on this local, unregulated spirit I would highly suggest investing in a home brewing kit for making beer or cider. We know sailors who brew Ginger Beer quite successfully, and ginger is readily available at very good prices.  

IF YOU ARE A WINE OR CHAMPAIGN DRINKER, fill your bilges wherever you come from. Wine is rarely available, and when it is, it will cost you an arm and a leg. This might even be a great currency for trading with other wino-yachties!

6# Avoid the Highest Agent Fees

Choosing an Agent

Be aware that there is a huge variation in agent/sponsor costs. (with the previous visa, the prices ranged from around 2,000,000 IDR to 4,000,000 IDR per passport for the initial 60 days)

Some agents have been operating for many years, and due to experience, reputation, and high demand, they charge a huge fee for their services. But there are many good, professional agents who do not have the same exposure and who will do a great job at a much more reasonable price.

We will happily share our experience with our agents. Just send us an email at blackduckatsea@gmail.com or send us a message on Facebook on BLACK DUCK AT SEA.

Do your research and talk to sailors who are in Indonesia and have firsthand and RECENT experiences.
There are a few Facebook groups such as Sail SE Asia and Laws and Regulations Indonesia, you can join to follow the changes and ask questions.

If you are leaving specifically from Australia, you can also check out our Group Australia to Indonesia and Beyond 2022. A small group of us started this in 2021 when leaving Australia during the pandemic.

Relying on Guides and agents

There seems to be a growing tendency to use agents and guides at every destination for everything from Immigration, driving, activities, shopping, refueling, filling water, and more.

Some people might prefer to have help and guidance, but if you like being independent and if you sail on a small budget, it might be good to know that this is not at all necessary. In fact, we have only used a guide once. This was on Komodo Island where it was obligatory in order to see the dragons.

See Fuel’n’Water for Black Duck’s methods and experiences with refueling and filling drinking water.

If you make an effort with the language you will make friends everywhere. And like everywhere else in the world, good relations with locals are key to having great shared experiences and the best way to learn about the place you are at.

7# Bringing Stuff for Trading

Whether intending to trade or gift, it is good to know what items might be valuable in Indonesia.
We have very often been in the situation where a person, family or whole village has been so extremely hospitable and generous that we have felt it an utmost necessity to give something back. (Although most people expect nothing in return for their generosity).

In our experience, it is nice to have a variety of stuff so that you have something for both women, men, and children.
These are just some of the items we found were greatly appreciated:

• Hook of various sizes, strong fishing line and swivels for the fishermen.
• Ropes for the sailors.
• School books and Rash Guards for the Children (You can go to any Australian secondhand shop and fill bags with old Rash Guards/ Rashies. If you tell them what it is for, you will most likely get a good price)
• T shirts and long pants for the women.

(Everyone loves a cool T-shirt with English writing or a cool logo)

8# Food Availability

Before leaving Australia, we had a shipment of bulk organic food sent from Terra Madre. (About 1 year’s worth of grains and legumes). By storing bulk food in jerry cans, we avoid generating a lot of plastic.

(As I am vegan and have no clue, I cannot make any recommendations on animal products, but I have heard complaints from fellow sailors about the lack of certain meat and cheese)

If you do adopt an Indonesian diet, however, there is no need to prepare anything, just turn up and eat extremely well and cheaply!!

9# The LPG Problem

The Indonesian LPG fitting is different from the Australian and European LPG fitting.

It is illegal to refill gas bottles in Indonesia, and it is very hard to find places that will do it for you; mind you, this might be different in more touristy areas and Marinas around Lombok, Bali, and Java.

Where refills are not available, you have 2 options. Do it yourself or change to Indonesian Bottles. The latter being the easiest option.

If you have not prepared a hose already, you will need to find the right fittings to fit both your bottle and an Indonesian Bottle.

There are two types of fittings in Indonesia: One that fits the smaller bottles that go on the top and one that fits the huge bottles, which happens to be the same as the European/Australian fitting.

The problem is that for refilling, you need fittings without regulators, as the regulator will prevent gas from passing in, and these can be a little harder to find. You can find these fittings in major Cities in Indonesia. I know of Jakarta, Kupang and Sorong or online on Tokopedia, the latter being the cheapest option.

If possible, get an Australian/European fitting without a regulator before you leave.

10# Fuels and Filters

There are three grades of diesel in Indonesia; please see Fuel’n’Water for details.

Due to the multiple times the diesel is decanted in Indonesia as it travels east from Singapore, it can be very dirty. It is therefore a very good idea to use fuel doctor. (Most likely, you already use this to help with the bacteria growing due to condensation in your tanks in tropical areas).

You might find fuel doctor in some big cities, but I would highly recommend bringing this from Australia. Ensure you have enough for long-term cruising and higher than usual diesel consumption. (due to lack of wind)

Although you will be able to order fuel filters in Indonesia, I would suggest bringing a good stock of both fuel and oil filters. You will most likely be changing these more frequently and might need multiple spares should you be unlucky to come across some extra dirty diesel.

Our fuel tank took a shit

11# Internet Availability Can Save You $$

Only seven years ago, I sailed through Indonesia with S.V. Wandoo, and using a satellite phone was absolutely necessary for weather forecasting. But in recent years, Indonesia’s internet availability has improved to the point where you can find internet on pretty much every Island throughout the country.

Apart from possibly saving you a huge bill from satellite phone fees, this is also very handy if you rely on the internet for doing online work. – If you come from sailing rural Northern Australia, you are in for a happy surprise.

Internet is also rather cheap (currently at approximately 100,000 IDR / 10 AUD 25GB).
We topped up using an online app called Telkomsel linked to a money transfer app, such as Ovo.

Be aware that Indonesia requires you to register your phone when you enter the country. This has to be done with customs at arrival. If your phone is worth more than a certain amount, you will have to pay import tax.

Personally, we decided to buy a cheap phone (at about 600,000 IDR) in Indonesia, which we use for hot-spotting and WhatsApp.
A wide range of smartphones are available all over Indonesia.

12# Safety (Piracy, Thieving and Corruption)

In Denmark, we have a saying which goes, ‘One feather becomes five chickens.’ I find this very appropriate for the general portrayal of the safety situation in Indonesia.

Of course, I have to be careful disputing that shit can’t happen, cause of course it can. But I think it is extremely important to be accurate rather than dramatic.

Piracy

‘Piracy’ is something that we were warned about multiple times in Australia when planning our trip to Indonesia. Having sailed here before, I knew that this was a greatly exaggerated narrative. And I must say, hearing the same paranoid warning again and again got frustrating after a while, especially from people who based their advice on hearsay.

Indonesia does have a reputation for piracy, and had a spike in incidents in 2015. Since then, the number of incidents has dropped significantly.

If you do take your time to look into the statistics, you will find that piracy in Indonesia is concentrated around Malacca Strait, mainly targeting Merchant Ships for their resources such as natural gas and petroleum. Attacks on private yachts and crew are actually extremely rare. This is a very important fact.

Unnecessary worry only leads to paranoia and false notions. Suddenly, one feather becomes five chickens, feeding the fear that gives Indonesia a bad reputation, and sailors doubt whether they should go at all.

Even sailing in Indonesia we have heard stories of pirate sightings. But many of these stories come from false judgments of curious fishermen or people begging for fuel.

I think it is extremely important to draw a line between uncomfortable encounters with rude or desperate locals and actual pirates.

Thieving

Like most places in the world, thieving does exist. But again, I think this narrative is greatly exaggerated in Indonesia. In all our time, we have not had a single issue, and we have never worried about leaving our dinghy unattended. We have, however, heard of other cruisers having stuff stolen from their dinghy or off their decks at night.

For a peace of mind in big cities, bring your most valuable items inside and lock up your boat when going ashore.

Theft generally seems to be opportunistic and usually happens in larger cities. In smaller villages and tight communities, there seems to be more accountability and a greater pride in welcoming and taking care of visitors. But no matter where you are, you will often find that people onshore, hanging around the water, will look after your dinghy while you are ashore.

If you are in doubt, ask a local if it is safe to leave your dinghy there, and they will tell you. Safe in Indonesian is ‘aman’. You will often hear locals tell you this before you even ask.

People come up to your yacht all the time, especially in rural areas where visitors are rare. Usually, because they want to welcome you or because they are curious to have a look at your amazing sailing vessel. You should strive to meet these people with equal hospitality, not suspicion and rejection because you are fearful.

On Navionics, we have noticed many comments on anchorages stating that there are thieves ashore; I would disregard this information and make your own judgments. We live by the idea, ‘Be a good guest, and your host will look out for you.’

Corruption

However, due to the changes in procedures during the pandemic, many agents/sponsors saw an opportunity to charge outrageous fees. I would recommend that if you use an agent, only chose one on recommendation, and even then, take your time to compare fees with other agents.

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13# Learning the Language!

I know that many people come to Indonesia for the reefs and the beaches, but to neglect exploring the amazing culture would be a great mistake.

In tourist areas, many people speak English, but should you choose to venture to more rural areas, expect to find yourself in villages where no one speaks English.

No matter what country you go to, it is a good custom to practice the language, but in Indonesia especially, it will change your entire experience completely. You will find yourself in places that cannot be researched on Google, and if you can make conversation and ask questions, the things you will learn about history and current life will blow your mind.

People in Indonesia are generally extremely hospitable and sociable, and with some language, you will make friends everywhere you go. For me, it has been the time spent with people, learning the language, learning the history, the cooking, and the making of so many great crafts that has made Indonesia one of my favorite places to travel in the world. We are both overwhelmed by the good treatment we have had everywhere we go, I cannot even justify it with my words.

You have to be able to communicate

Click Through the Pages in the Bottom Left Corner

Last but not least, Enjoy!

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